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History

Glossary

History

The fur trade has a long and fascinating history, stretching as far back as the Stone Age when skins were first worn by man for clothing and protection.

Many ancient Mediterranean civilisations, including the Phoenicians, the Greeks and the Romans, attached great ceremonial importance to dressed (tanned) animal skins and furs, which were worn as a symbol of power and luxury, as well as protection in battle.

In Northern Europe, fur began to be worn as a fashion item as well as for warmth from the 10th century. During the 11th and 12th centuries, hats made from beaver felt first became fashionable, developing into a trend for fur caps, gloves and muffs. This led to the foundation of the first European guilds for furriers.

All these uses of fur helped to drive the increase in commerce but it was in the 17th century that the trade really took off. The need to satisfy European demand, initially for beaver hats, explains many key historical developments at this time.

The search for fine skins was behind Russiaís push eastwards, beyond the Urals into Siberia and the Pacific regions. And demand for fur led many Europeans to set out for newly discovered North America to trade with native populations, exchanging furs and food for tools.

For some 200 years, there was intense competition between French and English adventurers, traders and even governments in the battle to control the North American fur trade. But the result was the exploration, mapping and settlement of much of modern day Canada.

A key moment for the fur trade was in 1670, when King Charles II of England granted a charter to his cousin Prince Rupert and a group of investors to be ìtrue and absolute Lordes and Proprietorsî of all the land and seas around the Hudson Bay. Initially founded to meet the demand for beaver hats in Europe, by the early 19th century, the Hudsonís Bay Company was one of the most powerful organisations in North America, controlling most of Canada as well as the trade in furs.

During the 19th century, Australia and New Zealand became large suppliers of lamb skins, and remain so to this day.

Towards the end of the 19th century, Central Asia (todayís Uzbekistan, Turkemenistan and Afghanistan) became an important supplier of Karakul or Persian lamb skins. Russian and Armenian merchants would collect the skins and, after local bargaining, would bring them back for sale either in London, Leipzig or sell them domestically in Nishni Novgorod. By the early 1900s, Karakul farming was introduced into South West Africa (now Namibia), where the arid, desert conditions are similar to those of the Central Asian steppes.

By the turn of the twentieth century, South America became of source of supply for a variety of skins for the fur trade. In the 1920s, Argentina and Uruguay were important suppliers, particularly of nutria and lamb skins.

Today, farmed furs (mainly mink and fox) are the mainstay of the fur trade, representing approximately 85% of the industryís turnover. The majority of skins ñ both wild and farmed from all over the world ñ are sold through international auction houses, from where fur starts its journey, via dressers and dyers, designers and manufacturers, to the consumer.

The trade in furs continues to support the traditional lifestyles and cultural values of many aboriginal Canadians, Alaskans, ëCajuní Louisianans, Siberians, Namibians and Afghans, many of whom live in regions that do not lend themselves to most agricultural activities.

The fur tradeís long history of craftsmanship also lives on. New technological developments combine with the traditional skills of the artisan to produce beautiful, unique creations out of a supremely natural product ñ fur.